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Tretinoin, most commonly known under the brand name Retin A, is a powerful treatment for both acne and wrinkles. Sticking to the instructions is key, however, and it's prescription-only for very good reasons.

Having the ability to transform the structure of your skin at the mollecular level, Retin A is classified not as a cosmetic product, but as a medicine. Browse skincare forums — like the one right here at SteadyHealth — and you'll quickly come across people who'd like to use Retin A even if they don't have a prescription, and are tempted to turn to dodgy online pharmacies to make their wish come true. Retin A isn't prescription-only just for technical reasons though, so hold off on ordering it from dubious sources without medical supervision!

Prescription retinoids may have the ability to do awesome things for your skin, but their use can also turn ugly pretty quickly. In fact, that's the exact term self-confessed "skincare junkies" use to describe the flaking, redness, and irritation that so many people experience on Retin A when they first start using it: "the uglies". Because it takes the skin some time to get used to tretinoin, and because different strengths are suitable for different circumstances, being monitored by a medical professional is key. 

How To Use Tretinoin Correctly

Following instructions is extremely important when you first start using tretinoin. The most commonly prescribed strengths of tretinoin are 0.025%, 0.05% and 0.1%, and doctors will usually advise you to start with the lowest possible strength first. Available in cream form as well as gel form for lower strengths, the gel form has been shown to typically cause fewer side effects.

In other words, following instructions begins with seeing a doctor and discussing the exact form of tretinoin you'll be using, rather than taking matters into your own hands. 

In addition, key factors you need to be aware of before you start using Retin A are:

  • Tretinoin increases your skin's sensitivity to the sun. This is both why users need to be extremely strict about using a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher and why the medication is only ever applied at night, and not during the day. 
  • Because it takes your skin a while to adjust to tretinoin, you may be advised to start off applying the product once every two or three nights rather than nightly. 
  • You need to wash your skin and wait 20 to 30 minutes before applying Retin A. Most doctors will advise you to use a moisturizer along with Retin A, either after application or prior to it. Retin A can cause some dryness in the skin, initially. Should you still suffer from irritation, burning sensations, redness and skin peeling, scale back as instructed by your dermatologist.
  • Less is more: you only need a pea-sized amount.
  • Keep tretinoin out of your eyes!!! If you're using it to reduce crow's feet, apply extreme caution. 

My Doctor Won't Give Me A Prescription For Retin A

Depending on where you live, your doctor will not prescribe tretinoin simply because you want to reduce wrinkles. In that case, you can still turn to retinol, another vitamin-A derivative that works in much the same way but is far less aggressive and likely to lead to side effects. This, too, is available in various strengths, even being incorporated in over-the-counter moisturizers more and more. In order to achieve a result comparable to tretinoin with retinol, however, you will need a higher strength.

Research shows that 1% retinol has a comparable effect as 0.05% tretinoin, making this a good choice for people who can't get a prescription for Retin A.