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The use of face creams is probably the most popular approach to combat the signs of aging. Despite the manufacturers' claims, the scientific evidences supporting their efficiency are limited.

While the findings about matrixyl are relatively new, another active ingredient, retinol, received much more attention of scientists and dermatologists. Retinol is a popular ingredient in many creams. One study assessing its efficacy involved 36 individuals aged 80 or above. Five participants did not finish the study due to skin irritation but in those who did the condition of skin significantly improved

However, the achieved improvements faded away 24 weeks after stopping the treatment.

Skin irritation is the major reason for restricting the availability of retinol products by prescriptions. There is not much evidence, however, that prescribed products are any better than those freely available.

One recent study compared the effect of non-prescription 1.1% tri-retinol and prescription retinoids like 0.025% tretinoin. The study lasted for 12 weeks, and no significant difference in the efficacy of two products was observed. At the end of the study, more than 93% of the subjects showed skin improvements and were satisfied with the results.

Topical agents enriched with AHA (alpha hydroxyl acids) were assessed for treatment of photo-damaged skin in a double-blind randomized clinical trial. Participants (74 women) were using creams containing 8% lactic and glycolic acid for 22 weeks. Half of the participants were given a placebo without active ingredients. Findings revealed that AHA decreased photo-damage of skin by 70% while in the placebo group only 41% improvement was seen. Unfortunately, many participants experienced skin irritation over the course of this study.

Skeptics are not convinced by face creams

While some studies conclude that at least some facial creams effectively fight wrinkles, many others come to a different conclusion. Professor Chris Griffiths from the University of Manchester, United Kingdom, warned customers about wasting their money on the expensive facial creams.

A cheap moisturizer, he said, may be used instead of retinol and other anti-aging agents since the claims that the latter work are based on very little evidences.

Dr. Patrick Bowler, the Harley Street skin specialist, says that the “miracle ingredients” such as AHA and retinol cannot eliminate the wrinkles since they are hardly ever used in the right concentration.

Commercialization of beauty treatments and problem of choice for the customers

The use of skin care and cosmetic products often depends on individual preferences. Marketing and advertising plays a huge role in promoting certain cosmetic brands. Many people are more influenced by peers’ opinions rather than scientific evidence. Their choice may also be affected by financial capability.

The good thing is that the creams with “magic ingredients” are often available at cheaper prices. It seems that the cost of face care products is often not related to their efficacy and composition. For instance, matrixyl, one of the very few ingredients with scientifically proven anti-aging effects, can be found in both cheap and expensive cosmetic brands. It saves money to pay attention to the list of ingredients!

  • Kafi R et al. (2007) Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol 143, 606-12
  • Leon H. Kircik MD (September 2012). Histologic Improvement in Photodamage After 12 Months of Treatment With Tretinoin Emollient Cream (0.02 %). Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. Volume 11, Issue 9, pages 1036-1040
  • Ho ET, Trookman NS et al. (January 2012) A randomized, double-blind, controlled comparative trial of the anti-aging properties of non-prescription tri-retinol 1.1% vs. prescription tretinoin 0.025%. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, Volume 11, Issue 1, pages 64-69.
  • Mindmap by steadyhealth.com
  • Photo courtesy of mirwav by Flickr : www.flickr.com/photos/mirwav/4295602939/

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