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For many people the reality of cancer sets in when chemotherapy causes them to lose their hair, often all at once. Some people hide cancer under a wig, and some people wear hair replacements as a symbol of defiance of the disease.

Many oncologists tend to overlook hair loss as consequence of cancer treatment. "Plan to use your energy fighting cancer rather than worrying about how you look," a pamphlet from the Mayo Clinic advises. But if you have cancer, managing your appearance well can be not just a significant morale booster, but an important part of how you fight the disease.

F--- You, Cancer!

Pat Painter, the doyenne of hair replacement for cancer patients in Austin, Texas for many years, developed her reputation by maintaining a comprehensive line of wigs for chemotherapy patients available at very reasonable prices. Some of her customers, however, arrive not quite ready to put on a wig, but they are ready for a ball cap. Her best seller? A pink baseball cap with the slogan "F--- Cancer."When new cancer patients grow tired of the cap, they usually try out a wig.

Why Get a Wig If You Lose Your Hair to Chemo?

It's easy to overanalyze motivations for obtaining hair replacement when hair is lost to chemotherapy.

Some people who have never had the disease suggest that wigs and makeup are just a way of denying the reality of cancer.

That's ridiculous. Cancer isn't a disease you can ignore. The pain of the disease, the discomfort of the treatment, and the reality of death are constant. No amount of dressing up will allow you to hide yourself from cancer.

Some especially annoying self-proclaimed experts on the cancer experience suggest that wearing a wig is a refusal of solidarity with other people who have cancer. Showing the mutilations of cancer to the world, these misguided people contend, tells people that you want research for a cure. While you may in fact want research, and just about everyone wants a cure, it hardly seems necessary to show your literal scars to the world to say so.

One of the reasons people get wigs and pay special attention to makeup when they are getting cancer treatment is that they don't want to be instantly identified as cancer patients in every social situation. They want to hold on to the identities they had before cancer. They don't want to give up their lives and their selves to the disease.

But Can't You Prevent Hair Loss from Chemotherapy?

There are two methods that may prevent hair loss during chemotherapy. One approach is to wrap the scalp with an ice pack while receiving the drugs. 

The ice reduces circulation to the scalp, the scalp receives less of the drug, and fewer hair follicles die.

This method is not entirely unsuccessful. It may not totally prevent hair loss, although it usually reduces it. The problem with reducing circulation to the scalp to preserve hair follicles is that if cancer cells have circulated to the scalp, they are more likely to form tumors there.

The other method commonly used to prevent hair loss from chemotherapy is treating the scalp with Minoxidil (Rogaine). This is an over the counter medication used to prevent hormone-related hair loss in both men and women. It usually doesn't stop hair loss from chemo, but it may help hair come back faster.

Ten Tips For Choosing A Chemotherapy Wig

If you have decided that hair replacement is for you, there are a number of things you can do to obtain a more attractive result, starting before treatment.

1. Before you get chemotherapy or radiation, be gentle with your hair.

Avoiding dyes, curling agents, or straightening agents, and especially pomades, can help you keep your natural hair as long as possible.

2. When your hair starts falling out, consider cutting it short.

Short hair looks fuller than long hair.

If your hair is falling out slowly, and you have a lot of hair left, you may achieve a better look by getting your hair trimmed than by shaving it all off in anticipation of losing it.

You may only have this look for a few weeks, but it can work for you.

3. If you are going to get a wig (or even if you're not), shaving your head has some advantages.

When hair falls out, the scalp usually gets itchy. Shaving remaining hair reduces itch and flaking. It's bad enough to have cancer. At least you can avoid having dandruff when you don't even have hair.

4. Make sure your head is covered.

If you don't wear a wig, wear a cap. Head coverings protect your scalp from cold and sunburn. If you can't wear a cap, either, use zinc oxide or titanium oxide (mineral-based) sunscreen to protect against burning. These products leave white cast on the skin they touch, but they are better than a burn.

5. Consider getting a completely new look with your wig.

Many wig shops post photos of glamorous women (and men) as models of great-looking hair. If you are losing all of your hair, or shaving it all off, and especially if you are experiencing changes in skin tone, consider getting a completely new look. Use the occasion for a makeover. The new, strong, cancer-defying you may take on a new look that doesn't say "I have cancer" but rather "I'm in charge of how I look."

6. Don't rush to buy a real-hair wig.

Real, human hair is expensive. Almost all human hair sold to the hair replacement industry is black and has to be dyed for any other color. Real-hair wigs are harder to maintain, don't last as long, and cost a lot more (usually 3 to 5 times as much) than synthetic hair wigs.

Start with synthetic hair wigs and see how you like them.

You may be able to buy multiple wigs, hair and a spare, if you stick to synthetic.

7. Consider getting a wig that's a lighter shade than your natural hair.

Chemotherapy can make your face look pale. Lighter hair tones help your face look more natural. If you have black hair, consider getting a dark brunette wig. If you have blond hair, get lighter tones.

8. Check whether your insurance will pay for your wig.

If your doctor writes a prescription for a "cranial prosthesis," your medical insurance may pay for your wig. Medicare, however, will not.

9. When you are trying on a wig for the first time, take your glasses off first.

And be sure to shake out the wig thoroughly before putting it on your head.

10. Consider investing in a "wig hugger."

This elastic band ensures that your wig will stay on your head.

And when you style your wig, don't forget:

  • Always tuck your hair behind your ears before you begin styling.
  • Bring only as much hair forward as needed to make your wig look natural.
  • Brush long hair, but use your fingers with short hair.
  • Have a stylist (or the wig seller) trim bangs if needed.
  • When you use hair conditioner, start with the ends first.

And don't try to have every hair in place. You'll never have a bad hair day if you invest in multiple wigs and make sure to have them shampooed and styled--just drop your hair off at the shop--ever week or two. You might even wear your wig when your hair grows back. It can look that good.

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